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06:45–08:00Ajax
BREAKFAST, final pack, passports out
At home, 16 Rushbrooke Way, Ajax
Check every passport is in hand, not in a suitcase. Baby's too
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08:1516 Rushbrooke Way
LEAVE HOME
Two cars, or a van taxi for five plus luggage
Target is wheels-rolling at 08:15. Earlier if anyone is slow in the morning
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08:15–09:45→ Pearson T1
Drive, ~60 km via Hwy 401 west
Hwy 401 westbound from Ajax to Pearson, ~60 km. Exit 50B for the airport
Allow the full 90 min. Wednesday morning westbound into Toronto is the worst direction on that road
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09:45–10:20Pearson T1
Park or drop off, then to departures
Terminal 1 departures is level 3. Air Canada check-in is at the west end
Terminal 1, level 3. If parking, factor the shuttle
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10:20–13:20Pearson T1
Check in, security, gate
International gates are in Terminal 1's E concourse, past US preclearance
Three hours before departure, as you wanted. AC1 is a wide-body — boarding starts early
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13:20Toronto → Tokyo
AC1 DEPARTS
Direct to Haneda Terminal 3
Direct to Haneda. ~13 hrs, arriving 15:40 on the 27th, Tokyo time
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15:40Haneda
Land
Terminal 3, arrivals on 2F
Terminal 3 for international arrivals
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15:40–16:50Haneda T3Tight
Immigration, bags, customs
Limousine Bus counter is in the arrivals hall, before you exit
TIGHT — you have 90 min to a fixed 17:10 departure. Head straight through; don't stop to shop
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16:50–17:10Haneda T3
Find the Limousine Bus stop, load bags
Bus bays are on the 1F kerbside. Look for the Shinjuku board
Bus bays are on the 1F arrivals level. Staff tag your suitcases into the hold
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17:10–18:05Haneda → ShinjukuBooked
AIRPORT LIMOUSINE — BOOKED
Non-stop
~55 min in evening traffic. Drops at Shinjuku Station West / Keio department store
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18:05–18:30Shinjuku Stn
BUY 3 SUICA CARDS
Bus drops at the Keio dept store kerb. Green JR machines are inside the West exit concourse
Green JR East ticket machines, right by the West exit where the bus drops you. Switch to English → Suica → New Purchase. ¥500 refundable deposit each, then load ¥3,000–5,000. SKIP the Travel Service Center — queues run 30+ min
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18:30–19:00Shinjuku
Taxi to APA Kabukicho, check in
Taxi rank is directly outside the West exit. TWO cars
Kabukicho is on the FAR side of the station from the drop-off. Take a taxi (~¥1,000) — TWO cars, a standard taxi seats four
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19:15–20:15Kabukicho
Dinner — 7-Eleven, eaten at the hotel
7-Eleven and Lawson are both within 2 min of the hotel
Genuinely the right call on night one with a baby. Onigiri, karaage, egg sandwiches, salads. Lawson and FamilyMart are equally good. If you have energy: Teppan Baby (B1F, okonomiyaki teppan, reserve)
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21:30Hotel
Sleep
Resist pushing through. If the Suica machines were a problem tonight, do it tomorrow at 06:45 before the Tsukiji run
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07:00–07:30Shinjuku → Tsukiji
Marunouchi + Hibiya lines
Shinjuku → Ginza on the Marunouchi line, change to Hibiya line → Tsukiji. ~25 min
~25 min
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07:30–09:30TsukijiCash only
BREAKFAST + Tsukiji Outer Market
Market is 3 min from Tsukiji stn exit 1
This IS breakfast — graze. Tamagoyaki, uni, grilled scallops. Cash. Stalls close by 13:00
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09:45–11:15Hamarikyu
Hamarikyu Gardens
10 min walk south along the canal from the market
10 min walk. Tea house on the pond, shaded
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11:30–12:15Hamarikyu → Asakusa
Sumida River boat
Boat pier is inside the gardens, at the south end
Scenic, and it's a sit-down
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12:15–13:30Asakusa
Lunch — Asakusa Amairo (tempura)
Amairo is 3 min west of Senso-ji, off Kaminarimon-dori
Tendon sets ~¥3,300 with sashimi and soup. +81 3-5830-6600. Queue forms at 11:30 opening — go straight there
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13:30–14:45Asakusa
Senso-ji + Nakamise-dori
5 min north from Asakusa pier, in through Kaminarimon gate
Main hall open 06:00–17:00. Nakamise is souvenir shopping
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14:45–16:15Kappabashi
SHOPPING — Kappabashi Kitchen Town
10 min west from Senso-ji along Asakusa-dori
10 min walk. Japanese knives, ceramics, cast iron, plastic food samples. Best souvenir street in Tokyo
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16:30–18:15Akihabara
Explore Akihabara
Ginza line from Tawaramachi to Suehirocho, ~12 min
Ginza line from Asakusa, ~10 min. Yodobashi Akiba, Super Potato for retro games, Mandarake, gachapon halls. Buildings are 6-8 floors with tight lifts — pick two or three, don't try to do the lot
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18:15–18:30→ Asakusa
Ginza line back
Ginza line back, Suehirocho → Tawaramachi
Dinner is in Asakusa
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18:30–20:00Asakusa
Dinner — Asakusa Monja Zenya
1-21-9 Asakusa, 4 min west of Senso-ji
Monjayaki cooked on a teppan at your table; staff help. English menu, 4.8 from 14,000 reviews. BOOK: +81 3-6802-7444. 2-hr table limit
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20:45–21:30Nishishinjuku
OPTIONAL — Tokyo Metropolitan Government deck
Ginza line to Shinjuku, then 10 min west from the West exit. Underground passage is signposted
Free, no ticket, South deck open to 22:00. Projection mapping on the facade until 21:30. 10 min walk from the hotel. Only if nobody's flagging — it's also on Saturday's plan
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07:30–08:00Kabukicho
BREAKFAST — konbini or hotel
7-Eleven on Yasukuni-dori, 2 min from the hotel
7-Eleven or Lawson by the hotel: onigiri, egg sandwich, hot coffee. ~¥600
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08:00–09:30Harajuku
Meiji Jingu
JR Yamanote, Shinjuku → Harajuku, 2 stops, 5 min. Shrine gate is beside the station
10 min from the hotel. Early morning here is genuinely peaceful
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09:30–11:00Harajuku
Takeshita-dori, then Omotesando
Takeshita-dori starts opposite Harajuku stn. Omotesando is 10 min south
Omotesando for the architecture and better coffee
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11:00–12:30Harajuku
Lunch — SMOKEHOUSE, then walk Cat Street
SMOKEHOUSE is in Jingumae 5-chome, just off Cat Street
American BBQ off Cat Street. Big tables, QR ordering, seated immediately per reviews. +81 3-6450-5855. Open 11:30–22:00
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12:30–14:00Shibuya
Scramble crossing, Hachiko
Cat Street runs south from Omotesando into Shibuya, ~15 min walk
Saturday — it will be heaving
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14:00–17:00Shibuya
SHOPPING — indoors and air-conditioned
Parco is 8 min north of the crossing; Loft and Tokyu Hands are within 5 min of it
Shibuya Parco (Nintendo, Pokémon, Jump), Loft, Tokyu Hands, Don Quijote. Or swap for teamLab Borderless at Azabudai
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17:00–17:30→ Shinjuku
Yamanote back to Shinjuku
JR Yamanote, Shibuya → Shinjuku, 2 stops, 7 min
~7 min, then a 10 min walk west to the Tocho
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17:30–19:00Nishishinjuku
Tokyo Metropolitan Government deck — FREE
10 min west from Shinjuku West exit. Follow the underground passage signs to 都庁
202m, no ticket, no queue commitment. South deck open to 22:00. Sunset ~18:15. There's a public piano anyone can play. Replaces Shibuya Sky, which is sold out
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19:00–20:45Shinjuku
Dinner — Omoide Yokocho
Omoide Yokocho is the alley just north of the West exit, 8 min back from the Tocho
Alley of tiny yakitori counters, 6-8 seats each — you may need to split across two. CASH
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20:45–21:15Tocho
Projection mapping on the building
Watch from Tokyo Citizens' Square, in front of the building, on the walk home
Every 30 min, 19:30–21:30 in August. Watch from Tokyo Citizens' Square, on the walk home
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07:15–07:45Shinjuku
BREAKFAST — konbini, eat on the train
Konbini inside Shinjuku station
Bags stay at the hotel today — you're checked in until tomorrow
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08:00–09:00Shinjuku → Kamakura
Shonan-Shinjuku Line, direct
JR Shonan-Shinjuku Line, Shinjuku platform 3/4. ZUSHI-bound. Direct, 60 min
~60 min. Check it's a Zushi-bound train
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09:00–09:15Kamakura Stn
Buy Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass
Machines are inside Kamakura station
Optional — worth it if you're doing the Enoden coast
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09:15–10:45Kamakura
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu
10 min north up Wakamiya-oji from the East exit
Walk the long approach up from the station
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10:45–11:15Kamakura
SHOPPING — Komachi-dori
Komachi-dori runs parallel, back toward the station
Craft shops, ceramics, senbei, matcha sweets. Busy by mid-morning
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11:15–11:30Kamakura → Hase
Enoden
Enoden platform is on the WEST side of Kamakura stn, 3 stops to Hase
~5 min
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11:30–12:30Hase
Hase-dera
5 min from Hase stn, signposted
Hydrangea paths, sea view from the terrace
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12:30–13:15Hase
Kotoku-in — the Great Buddha
8 min further north from Hase-dera
8 min walk. Pay the extra ¥50 to go inside it
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13:15–14:30Kamakura
Lunch — Kamakura Rokuyata
Enoden back to Kamakura; Rokuyata is 4 min from the station
Tofu-and-meat hamburg sets, English menu, 4 min from the station. +81 467-61-0680. Open Sun 11:00–16:00 (shut Tue/Wed)
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14:30–16:30Enoshima
Enoden along the coast
Enoden west along the coast, ~25 min. Kamakura-Koko-Mae is the famous crossing
Kamakura-Koko-Mae is the famous level crossing. Sea caves, or just the beach
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17:00–18:30→ Tokyo
Back to Shinjuku
Enoden to Kamakura, then Shonan-Shinjuku back
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19:00 →Shinjuku
Dinner — Mo-Mo Paradise Higashiguchi
3F/4F of the Humax Pavilion, Shinjuku East exit, 5 min from the hotel
All-you-can-eat shabu-shabu and sukiyaki, 3F/4F. 4.9 from 12,000 reviews. +81 50-1807-6990 — reviewers walk in and are seated. Then pack for Hakone
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07:10–07:55Shinjuku
BREAKFAST — hotel or konbini
7-Eleven by the hotel
Earlier start for the 08:31 train. Or buy an ekiben at the station and eat it on the Romancecar — the view is the point
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07:55–08:15Shinjuku
Check out, walk to the Odakyu platform
10 min walk. Odakyu lines are on the WEST side of Shinjuku stn, B1
~10 min from the hotel, plus time to find the Romancecar platform
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08:31–10:18Shinjuku → Hakone-YumotoBooked
Romancecar — BOOKED
Odakyu Romancecar platform. Direct, no change
1h47. Sit on the right after Odawara for the river gorge
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10:18–10:45Hakone-Yumoto Stn
COIN LOCKERS — leave the suitcases here
Lockers are by the escalators inside Hakone-Yumoto stn
Airbnb check-in won't be until afternoon. Large lockers ~¥700–800, by the escalators. Bring coins
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10:45–11:15→ Chokoku-no-Mori
Hakone Tozan Railway
Hakone Tozan platform, same station. Get off at CHOKOKU-NO-MORI, 4 stops
The switchback mountain climb. Get off ONE STOP BEFORE Gora — the museum is a 2 min walk
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11:15–13:15Ninotaira
HAKONE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
2 min from Chokoku-no-Mori stn, signposted
Sculpture park, Picasso Pavilion, air-conditioned galleries when the heat gets much, a foot bath and play structures. Pram-friendly paths. ~¥2,000. LUNCH at the museum café
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13:15–13:35→ Gora
Tozan one stop up
Tozan one stop up to Gora
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13:35–14:00Gora → Sounzan
Gora cablecar
Cablecar platform is upstairs at Gora stn
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14:00–14:45Owakudani
Hakone Ropeway
Ropeway starts at Sounzan, top of the cablecar. Owakudani is the mid-station
Sulphur vents, black eggs. Fuji if the weather cooperates
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14:45–15:30Togendai → Lake Ashi
Pirate ship across the lake
Ropeway ends at Togendai; the pier is 2 min from it
Last sailings around 17:00 — you have slack, but don't dawdle at Owakudani
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15:30–16:45Motohakone
Hakone Shrine + lakeside torii
Boat docks at Motohakone-ko. Shrine is 10 min along the lakeside path
Queue for the torii photo runs ~3 min per slot
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16:45–17:45→ Yumoto
Bus down, collect bags from the lockers
Hakone Tozan bus H from Motohakone-ko to Hakone-Yumoto, ~40 min. Then lockers
Then 10–15 min walk uphill to the flat with the suitcases
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18:00–19:00Yumoto
ONSEN
Tenzan runs a free shuttle from Yumoto stn; Kappa Tengoku is 5 min uphill
Tenzan or Kappa Tengoku, both walkable from the flat
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19:10 →YumotoCash onlyTight
Dinner — BOOTEA
729 Yumoto, 5 min along the main street
Butadon and taco rice, 5 min from the flat at 729 Yumoto. +81 460-83-9559. CASH ONLY. Mon dinner service 17:30–20:00 — tightest window of the trip. If the loop runs late, eat first and onsen after
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07:00–07:40Yumoto
BREAKFAST — konbini on the main street
24h Lawson on the Yumoto main street
Earlier start for the 08:35 train. The Lawson is 24h; bakeries won't be open yet. Grab extra for the 3-hr train
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07:40–07:55Yumoto
Check out, walk to Hakone-Yumoto station
Station is at the bottom of the main street
You're on the station's doorstep
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08:00–08:15→ Odawara
Hakone Tozan / Odakyu line
Hakone Tozan / Odakyu, Hakone-Yumoto → Odawara. Freepass covers it
~15 min. Covered by the Freepass, which is valid today
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08:15–08:35Odawara
Transfer to the shinkansen platform
At Odawara: exit the Odakyu gates, follow signs to the JR SHINKANSEN gates. Separate ticket barrier
Separate gates — allow the full 20 min with bags
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08:35–11:34Odawara → KyotoBooked
Kodama, DIRECT — BOOKED
Odawara shinkansen platform. Direct Kodama, no change
2h59, no transfer. Slower than changing at Nagoya but you never move the suitcases
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11:34–12:10Kyoto Stn → Gion
Taxi with bags (2 cars, ~¥2,000 each)
Taxi rank at Kyoto stn Karasuma (north) exit. TWO cars
Cheaper by subway + walk, but not with suitcases
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12:10–12:40Higashiyama
Bags to the Airbnb (15-1 Yamatocho)
15-1 Yamatocho, on Yamatooji-dori just south of Shijo
You're one street off Gion — check-in may be later, but leave the bags
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12:40–13:40Gion
Lunch — Issen Yoshoku
238 Gionmachi Kitagawa, 3 min north on Yamatooji
Three minutes from the flat. Serves exactly ONE dish, a Kyoto okonomiyaki — no menu decisions after a 3-hr train. +81 75-533-0001. Open 11:00 to 01:00
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13:40–15:15Nakagyo
Nishiki Market
Walk west over Shijo bridge, 20 min. Or Hankyu Gion-Shijo → Kawaramachi, 1 stop
20 min walk over Shijo bridge, or one Hankyu stop. Indoors and shaded
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15:15–16:30Nakagyo
SHOPPING — Teramachi + Shinkyogoku arcades
Teramachi arcade runs north from the east end of Nishiki
Runs straight off the end of Nishiki. Covered, air-conditioned: stationery, knives, secondhand kimono, ceramics
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16:30–17:30Pontocho
Pontocho alley, then back to the flat
Cross back east over Shijo; Pontocho is the alley running north beside the river
The earlier train buys you an hour here
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18:00 →Pontocho
Dinner — Izakaya Fukurou
3F, Nabeyacho, mid-Pontocho
3F, lively, QR ordering, big menu, ~¥3,000pp. +81 80-5598-6226. Opens 15:00. Changed from Matamoya, which seats a handful
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20:00 →Gion
Walk home through Gion
South through Gion, 10 min home
Hanamikoji and the Shirakawa canal are on your doorstep
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06:45–07:15Gion
BREAKFAST — konbini, eat en route
Konbini on Shijo-dori
Everything local opens after 08:00 and the bamboo grove won't wait. Stock the Airbnb the night before
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07:15Gion-Shijo
Walk to Hankyu Kyoto-Kawaramachi, ride to Arashiyama
8 min walk to Hankyu Kyoto-Kawaramachi → Katsura, change to the Arashiyama line. ~35 min
Change at Katsura. ~35 min door to door
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07:45–08:30Arashiyama
Bamboo Grove
10 min north from Hankyu Arashiyama through the town
The early start is the whole trick. By 10:00 it's shoulder to shoulder
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08:30–10:00Arashiyama
Tenryu-ji
The grove path exits at Tenryu-ji's north gate
Opens 08:30. Sogenchi garden from the veranda is the highlight
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10:00–11:00Arashiyama
Togetsukyo Bridge, riverside, monkey park
5 min south of Tenryu-ji main gate
Monkey park is a real climb
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11:00–11:45Arashiyama
SHOPPING — main street + Kimono Forest
Main street runs between the bridge and Randen Arashiyama stn
Yatsuhashi sweets, incense, bamboo craft, Randen station's lantern pillars
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11:45–12:45Arashiyama
Lunch — Yudofu Sagano
Beside Tenryu-ji, through the garden gate
The local dish, in a garden beside Tenryu-ji. Tatami, shoes off, so the baby can be put down. +81 75-871-6946. Open daily 11:00–17:30. ~¥4,400 a head — priciest meal of the trip
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12:45–13:30→ Kinkaku-ji
Bus or taxi
Taxi is simplest, ~30 min. Rail option: Randen to Kitano-Hakubaicho then 22 min walk
~30 min across town
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13:30–14:45Kita-kuCash only
Kinkaku-ji — the Golden Pavilion
Entrance on the south side. CASH for tickets
One-way loop, ~45 min. Open 09:00–17:00. CASH for tickets
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15:00–16:00Kita-ku
Ryoan-ji rock garden
Bus 59, or a 15 min walk west
Optional, 15 min away
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16:30–18:00Gion
Back to the flat, rest
Bus 205 to Shijo-Kawaramachi, then walk east over the bridge
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18:30 →Gion
Dinner — Gion Sobar
254 Gionmachi Kitagawa, 4 min from the flat
Handmade gyoza, soba, wagyu sushi. +81 75-606-5757. Wed dinner 18:00–21:00. Reviewers report a group of 6 accommodated
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06:15–06:45Gion
BREAKFAST — konbini, or save it
Konbini on Shijo-dori
Dawn start. There are teahouses at the base of Fushimi Inari for a proper bite after the climb
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06:45Gion-Shijo
Keihan line straight to Fushimi Inari
5 min walk to Gion-Shijo stn. Keihan SOUTHBOUND to Fushimi-Inari, 8 min
~8 min, direct from your doorstep. Better than routing via Kyoto Station
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07:00–09:00Fushimi
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Shrine gate is 3 min east of Fushimi-Inari stn
Open 24h and free — go at dawn. Yotsutsuji viewpoint ~30 min up; full loop 2–3 hrs
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09:00–09:30→ Kiyomizu-Gojo
Keihan line back north
Keihan north to Kiyomizu-Gojo, 6 min
One stop short of home
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09:45–11:15Higashiyama
Kiyomizu-dera
20 min uphill east from Kiyomizu-Gojo stn. Steep at the end
The stage, Otowa waterfall, Jishu Shrine
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11:15–13:00Higashiyama
SHOPPING — Sannenzaka + Ninenzaka
The lanes descend north from Kiyomizu's main gate
Preserved lanes: Kiyomizu-yaki pottery, hand-dyed textiles, matcha, incense. The postcard Kyoto, and it walks you home
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13:00–14:00Ninenzaka
Lunch — Ninenzaka KAMANZA
On Ninenzaka itself, no detour
Right on Ninenzaka. Unaju and udon sets, tablet ordering with English. +81 75-531-1719. Open Thu 11:00–15:30, walk in. Backup: Taku Sando, +81 75-600-9633
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14:00–15:00Higashiyama
Kodai-ji, Nene-no-Michi path
Continue north 8 min along Nene-no-Michi
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15:00–16:00Gion
Yasaka Shrine + Maruyama Park
5 min further north; Maruyama Park is behind the shrine
Five minutes from the flat
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16:00–18:00Gion
Break, or the Philosopher's Path
Flat is 10 min west through Gion
Only if you have energy left
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18:30 →Gion
Last dinner — Gion Daikichi Farm
528 Gionmachi Minamigawa, near Yasaka Shrine
Curry udon and beef rice bowls, near Yasaka Shrine. +81 75-746-4129. QR ordering. Open Thu 11:00–20:00 (shut Sun). Repack tonight — tomorrow you carry everything
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07:15–08:00Gion
BREAKFAST — Gion kissaten or konbini
Kissaten on Shijo-dori or Hanamikoji
Kyoto's old coffee houses do a 'morning set' — thick toast, boiled egg, coffee — from around 07:00
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08:00–08:30Gion → Kyoto Stn
Check out, TAXI with the bags
Flag taxis on Shijo-dori. ~15 min to Kyoto stn. TWO cars
~15 min, ¥1,500–2,000. Worth it — the Keihan route needs a transfer you don't want with suitcases
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08:45–09:20Kyoto → Kintetsu-Nara
Kintetsu Limited Express, DIRECT
Kintetsu Kyoto stn is on the SOUTH side of JR Kyoto, upstairs. Buy the LE seat at the machine
~35 min, no change, reserved seats with luggage space. Buy at the station
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09:20–09:40Kintetsu-Nara Stn
COIN LOCKERS — leave the suitcases
Lockers inside Kintetsu-Nara stn
Large lockers available here. Nara Park is not a place to drag a suitcase
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09:40–10:30Nara Park
The deer
5 min east from Kintetsu-Nara exit 2
Buy shika senbei crackers — they bow for them
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10:30–12:00Nara
Todai-ji, Great Buddha Hall
15 min northeast through the park, past the Nandaimon gate
Open 07:30–17:30
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12:00–13:00Nara
Lunch — GYUMON Nara (ramen)
Back toward Sanjo-dori, B1 of the Morita Building
Wagyu ramen and gyoza, near Sanjo-dori. +81 742-95-6400. Open 11:00–21:00. 4.9 from 1,200 reviews; reviewers note it handled a group of 8 with kids
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13:00–14:30Nara
Kasuga Taisha
20 min southeast on the lantern-lined forest path
Stone and bronze lantern approach through the forest
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14:30–15:15Nara
Kofuku-ji pagoda, or Isuien Garden
Kofuku-ji is on the way back west; Isuien is just north of it
Isuien if you want shade and quiet
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15:15–15:40Kintetsu-Nara Stn
Collect bags from the lockers
20 min walk back to Kintetsu-Nara
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15:45–16:30Nara → Osaka-Namba
Kintetsu rapid express
Kintetsu Nara line rapid express, direct to Osaka-Namba, 40 min
~40 min
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16:30–17:15Namba
Check into Hotel Asiato Namba
Hotel Asiato is 6 min from Namba stn exit 14
Minutes' walk from Dotonbori
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17:15–18:30Shinsaibashi
SHOPPING — Shinsaibashi-suji arcade
Shinsaibashi-suji arcade runs north from the Dotonbori canal
600m covered arcade running north from Dotonbori. Uniqlo, Muji, drugstores, Don Quijote. Open late
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18:30–19:30Dotonbori
Glico sign, Ebisu bridge, canal at night
5 min from the hotel, back down the arcade
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19:30 →Dotonbori
Dinner — Kushikatsu Ittoku
1-6-4 Dotonbori, on the main strip
Fried skewers, English menu, app ordering. +81 6-6213-9499. Open to 01:00. One dip in the shared sauce, never two
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07:15–08:00Namba
BREAKFAST, check out, take all bags
Kuromon Market is 5 min east of the hotel
Earlier start for Himeji. Kuromon Market is 5 min away if you'd rather graze than do a hotel buffet
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08:00–08:20→ Shin-Osaka
Midosuji Line with the bags
Midosuji line, Namba → Shin-Osaka, 12 min, direct
Namba → Shin-Osaka ~12 min. Leaves ~24 min on the platform
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08:44–09:14Shin-Osaka → HimejiBooked
Sanyo Shinkansen — BOOKED
Shinkansen gates and platforms are on 3F at Shin-Osaka
30 min
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09:14–09:35Himeji Stn
COIN LOCKERS — leave the suitcases
Lockers in the Himeji stn central concourse
Large lockers in the station. Third and last locker day
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09:35–11:20HimejiNo pram
HIMEJI CASTLE
Straight 15 min north down Otemae-dori from the NORTH exit. Castle is in view the whole way
Straight 15-min walk down Otemae-dori from the north exit — the castle is in view the whole way. Grounds are fine with a pram; the KEEP is steep wooden stairs, shoes carried in a bag, NO prams inside
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11:20–12:20Himeji
KOKO-EN GARDEN
3 min west of the castle entrance
Right beside the castle, nine walled Edo gardens. Buy the COMBINED ticket (~¥1,050) at the castle — cheaper than separate
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12:20–13:15Himeji
Lunch — Otemae-dori or the station
Back down Otemae-dori toward the station
Himeji oden is the local thing. Ekimae has plenty of casual sets
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13:15–13:40→ Himeji Stn
Collect bags from the lockers
Lockers, then straight upstairs to the shinkansen platform
Boarding at 13:46 — don't cut this fine
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13:46–14:42Himeji → HiroshimaBooked
Sanyo Shinkansen — BOOKED
Himeji shinkansen platform is upstairs
56 min, so this is a Sakura or Hikari rather than a Nozomi
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14:42–15:25Kyobashicho
Drop bags at APA Ohashi, then straight out
Underground walkway from Hiroshima stn, up at Exit 8, over the bridge. 5 min
Hotel is 5 min from the station via the underground walkway, Exit 8, over the bridge. Don't linger — the museum closes at 18:00
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15:25–17:40Peace ParkTight
Peace Memorial Museum + A-Bomb Dome
Hiroden tram 2 or 6 from Hiroshima stn to Genbaku Dome-mae, ~15 min
Museum CLOSES 18:00 in September. Just over two hours — the tightest block of the trip. Go straight there
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17:40–18:15Peace Park
Walk the park in the late light
The park is a single open space; the Dome is at the north end
Children's Peace Monument, cenotaph, the flame
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18:15–19:00Hondori
SHOPPING — Hondori arcade
Hondori arcade starts at Genbaku Dome-mae and runs east
Covered arcade running east from the Peace Park. Local sweets, Carp baseball goods, drugstores
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19:00–20:30ShintenchiCash only
Dinner — Okonomimura
5-13 Shintenchi, at the east end of Hondori
Four floors of okonomiyaki stalls, griddle counters. +81 82-241-2210. Syo-chan on 2F is well liked. CASH ONLY
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20:45 →APA Ohashi
ONSEN — the hotel's communal baths
Tram back to Hiroshima stn, then the underground walkway
The reason to pick this hotel. Best possible end to the Peace Park day
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06:30–07:15APA Ohashi
BREAKFAST at the hotel, check out, LEAVE BAGS
Breakfast is in the hotel; bag storage at the front desk
Go early — APA breakfast runs out. Bag storage at the desk
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07:15–07:35→ Hiroshima Station
Walk back via the underground walkway
Underground walkway back to Hiroshima stn, 5 min
~5 min, plus buffer. JR train at 07:45
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07:45–08:45→ Miyajima
JR Sanyo Line + JR ferry
JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi, 27 min, then the JR ferry, 10 min. Suica works on both
~27 min train, ~10 min ferry
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08:45–09:30MiyajimaCheck tide
Itsukushima Shrine
10 min along the foreshore from the ferry pier
CHECK THE TIDE TABLE — high tide floats the torii, low tide lets you walk to it
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09:30–10:45Miyajima
Daisho-in temple
15 min uphill south from the shrine
Spinning prayer wheels up the mountain stairs. More deer
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10:45–11:45Miyajima
SHOPPING — Omotesando street
Omotesando runs back down toward the pier
Carved rice scoops (the island's craft), momiji-manju, cedar chopsticks
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11:45–12:45Miyajima
Lunch — BARL ISSAI
By the pier, 2 min from the ferry
Oyster curry and raw oysters by the pier, cheap and good. +81 829-78-0793. Open 10:00–20:00
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12:45–15:15Mt Misen
Ropeway + summit walk
Ropeway base at Momijidani, 10 min walk or a free shuttle from the pier
The later train buys you this. ~30 min up, then a 20-30 min climb to the summit for the Inland Sea view. Last ropeway down ~17:00
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15:15–16:15→ Hiroshima
Ferry and train back
Ferry, then JR back to Hiroshima
Or skip Misen and do Shukkeien Garden, 10 min from Hiroshima Station
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16:30–17:10APA Ohashi
Collect bags
Underground walkway, Exit 8. 5 min each way
5 min each way via the underground walkway
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17:20–18:00Hiroshima Stn
DINNER — buy ekiben for the train
Ekie food hall is inside Hiroshima stn, before the gates
Hiroshima's is anago-meshi (grilled conger eel on rice). Eat it somewhere over Okayama
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18:00–21:55Hiroshima → ShinagawaAlight early
Nozomi, direct
Shinkansen platform. GET OFF AT SHINAGAWA, one stop before Tokyo
~3h55. Dark by Fuji, so no view tonight. GET OFF AT SHINAGAWA — one stop before Tokyo
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22:05 →Shinagawa
Check in — Shinagawa Prince N Tower
Hotel is across from the Takanawa (west) exit
Across from the station. Keikyu to Haneda leaves from here tomorrow
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08:00–09:00Shinagawa Prince N Tower
BREAKFAST, pack, check out (leave bags at the hotel)
Bag storage at the front desk — queues at checkout, go early
Last one. Hotel buffet, or Ecute inside Shinagawa Station. Bag storage queues at checkout — go early
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09:00–12:45Tokyo
Free morning — SHOPPING
JR Yamanote north from Shinagawa: Tokyo stn 12 min, Ueno 20 min. Ginza via Shimbashi
Yamanote north: Ginza (20 min), Tokyo Station Character Street, Imperial Palace East Gardens, or Ameyoko at Ueno
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12:45–13:30Shinagawa
Back for bags, quick lunch
Ecute food hall is inside Shinagawa stn
Ecute inside the station has good bento and cheap sushi
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13:30–13:50→ Haneda T3
Keikyu Airport Line, direct
Keikyu Airport Line from Shinagawa, DIRECT to Haneda T3, 13 min, ~¥330
~13 min, ~¥300, no transfer. Runs every few minutes
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14:00–17:00Haneda T3
Check in, security, gate
International departures are on 3F at Terminal 3
3 hrs before a 17:00 international departure
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17:00→ Toronto
Fly home
Direct to Toronto