Itinerary · 4 adults + 1 infant

Tokyo Hakone Kyoto Osaka Hiroshima Tokyo

26 August – 7 September 2026 · 4 adults + 1 infant

13Days
9Places
146Entries
3Locker days
30–34°Humid
26

Wed 26 Aug

Fly out

Canada
AjaxPearson T1AC1

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  1. 06:45–08:00
    Ajax

    BREAKFAST, final pack, passports out

    At home, 16 Rushbrooke Way, Ajax

    Check every passport is in hand, not in a suitcase. Baby's too

  2. 08:15
    16 Rushbrooke Way

    LEAVE HOME

    Two cars, or a van taxi for five plus luggage

    Target is wheels-rolling at 08:15. Earlier if anyone is slow in the morning

  3. 08:15–09:45
    → Pearson T1

    Drive, ~60 km via Hwy 401 west

    Hwy 401 westbound from Ajax to Pearson, ~60 km. Exit 50B for the airport

    Allow the full 90 min. Wednesday morning westbound into Toronto is the worst direction on that road

  4. 09:45–10:20
    Pearson T1

    Park or drop off, then to departures

    Terminal 1 departures is level 3. Air Canada check-in is at the west end

    Terminal 1, level 3. If parking, factor the shuttle

  5. 10:20–13:20
    Pearson T1

    Check in, security, gate

    International gates are in Terminal 1's E concourse, past US preclearance

    Three hours before departure, as you wanted. AC1 is a wide-body — boarding starts early

  6. 13:20
    Toronto → Tokyo

    AC1 DEPARTS

    Direct to Haneda Terminal 3

    Direct to Haneda. ~13 hrs, arriving 15:40 on the 27th, Tokyo time

27

Thu 27 Aug

Arrival

Tokyo
HanedaShinjukuKabukicho

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  1. 15:40
    Haneda

    Land

    Terminal 3, arrivals on 2F

    Terminal 3 for international arrivals

  2. 15:40–16:50
    Haneda T3Tight

    Immigration, bags, customs

    Limousine Bus counter is in the arrivals hall, before you exit

    TIGHT — you have 90 min to a fixed 17:10 departure. Head straight through; don't stop to shop

  3. 16:50–17:10
    Haneda T3

    Find the Limousine Bus stop, load bags

    Bus bays are on the 1F kerbside. Look for the Shinjuku board

    Bus bays are on the 1F arrivals level. Staff tag your suitcases into the hold

  4. 17:10–18:05
    Haneda → ShinjukuBooked

    AIRPORT LIMOUSINE — BOOKED

    Non-stop

    ~55 min in evening traffic. Drops at Shinjuku Station West / Keio department store

  5. 18:05–18:30
    Shinjuku Stn

    BUY 3 SUICA CARDS

    Bus drops at the Keio dept store kerb. Green JR machines are inside the West exit concourse

    Green JR East ticket machines, right by the West exit where the bus drops you. Switch to English → Suica → New Purchase. ¥500 refundable deposit each, then load ¥3,000–5,000. SKIP the Travel Service Center — queues run 30+ min

  6. 18:30–19:00
    Shinjuku

    Taxi to APA Kabukicho, check in

    Taxi rank is directly outside the West exit. TWO cars

    Kabukicho is on the FAR side of the station from the drop-off. Take a taxi (~¥1,000) — TWO cars, a standard taxi seats four

  7. 19:15–20:15
    Kabukicho

    Dinner — 7-Eleven, eaten at the hotel

    7-Eleven and Lawson are both within 2 min of the hotel

    Genuinely the right call on night one with a baby. Onigiri, karaage, egg sandwiches, salads. Lawson and FamilyMart are equally good. If you have energy: Teppan Baby (B1F, okonomiyaki teppan, reserve)

  8. 21:30
    Hotel

    Sleep

    Resist pushing through. If the Suica machines were a problem tonight, do it tomorrow at 06:45 before the Tsukiji run

28

Fri 28 Aug

East Tokyo

Tokyo
TsukijiHamarikyuAsakusaKappabashiAkihabara

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  1. 07:00–07:30
    Shinjuku → Tsukiji

    Marunouchi + Hibiya lines

    Shinjuku → Ginza on the Marunouchi line, change to Hibiya line → Tsukiji. ~25 min

    ~25 min

  2. 07:30–09:30
    TsukijiCash only

    BREAKFAST + Tsukiji Outer Market

    Market is 3 min from Tsukiji stn exit 1

    This IS breakfast — graze. Tamagoyaki, uni, grilled scallops. Cash. Stalls close by 13:00

  3. 09:45–11:15
    Hamarikyu

    Hamarikyu Gardens

    10 min walk south along the canal from the market

    10 min walk. Tea house on the pond, shaded

  4. 11:30–12:15
    Hamarikyu → Asakusa

    Sumida River boat

    Boat pier is inside the gardens, at the south end

    Scenic, and it's a sit-down

  5. 12:15–13:30
    Asakusa

    Lunch — Asakusa Amairo (tempura)

    Amairo is 3 min west of Senso-ji, off Kaminarimon-dori

    Tendon sets ~¥3,300 with sashimi and soup. +81 3-5830-6600. Queue forms at 11:30 opening — go straight there

  6. 13:30–14:45
    Asakusa

    Senso-ji + Nakamise-dori

    5 min north from Asakusa pier, in through Kaminarimon gate

    Main hall open 06:00–17:00. Nakamise is souvenir shopping

  7. 14:45–16:15
    Kappabashi

    SHOPPING — Kappabashi Kitchen Town

    10 min west from Senso-ji along Asakusa-dori

    10 min walk. Japanese knives, ceramics, cast iron, plastic food samples. Best souvenir street in Tokyo

  8. 16:30–18:15
    Akihabara

    Explore Akihabara

    Ginza line from Tawaramachi to Suehirocho, ~12 min

    Ginza line from Asakusa, ~10 min. Yodobashi Akiba, Super Potato for retro games, Mandarake, gachapon halls. Buildings are 6-8 floors with tight lifts — pick two or three, don't try to do the lot

  9. 18:15–18:30
    → Asakusa

    Ginza line back

    Ginza line back, Suehirocho → Tawaramachi

    Dinner is in Asakusa

  10. 18:30–20:00
    Asakusa

    Dinner — Asakusa Monja Zenya

    1-21-9 Asakusa, 4 min west of Senso-ji

    Monjayaki cooked on a teppan at your table; staff help. English menu, 4.8 from 14,000 reviews. BOOK: +81 3-6802-7444. 2-hr table limit

  11. 20:45–21:30
    Nishishinjuku

    OPTIONAL — Tokyo Metropolitan Government deck

    Ginza line to Shinjuku, then 10 min west from the West exit. Underground passage is signposted

    Free, no ticket, South deck open to 22:00. Projection mapping on the facade until 21:30. 10 min walk from the hotel. Only if nobody's flagging — it's also on Saturday's plan

29

Sat 29 Aug

West Tokyo

Tokyo
Meiji JinguHarajukuShibuya

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  1. 07:30–08:00
    Kabukicho

    BREAKFAST — konbini or hotel

    7-Eleven on Yasukuni-dori, 2 min from the hotel

    7-Eleven or Lawson by the hotel: onigiri, egg sandwich, hot coffee. ~¥600

  2. 08:00–09:30
    Harajuku

    Meiji Jingu

    JR Yamanote, Shinjuku → Harajuku, 2 stops, 5 min. Shrine gate is beside the station

    10 min from the hotel. Early morning here is genuinely peaceful

  3. 09:30–11:00
    Harajuku

    Takeshita-dori, then Omotesando

    Takeshita-dori starts opposite Harajuku stn. Omotesando is 10 min south

    Omotesando for the architecture and better coffee

  4. 11:00–12:30
    Harajuku

    Lunch — SMOKEHOUSE, then walk Cat Street

    SMOKEHOUSE is in Jingumae 5-chome, just off Cat Street

    American BBQ off Cat Street. Big tables, QR ordering, seated immediately per reviews. +81 3-6450-5855. Open 11:30–22:00

  5. 12:30–14:00
    Shibuya

    Scramble crossing, Hachiko

    Cat Street runs south from Omotesando into Shibuya, ~15 min walk

    Saturday — it will be heaving

  6. 14:00–17:00
    Shibuya

    SHOPPING — indoors and air-conditioned

    Parco is 8 min north of the crossing; Loft and Tokyu Hands are within 5 min of it

    Shibuya Parco (Nintendo, Pokémon, Jump), Loft, Tokyu Hands, Don Quijote. Or swap for teamLab Borderless at Azabudai

  7. 17:00–17:30
    → Shinjuku

    Yamanote back to Shinjuku

    JR Yamanote, Shibuya → Shinjuku, 2 stops, 7 min

    ~7 min, then a 10 min walk west to the Tocho

  8. 17:30–19:00
    Nishishinjuku

    Tokyo Metropolitan Government deck — FREE

    10 min west from Shinjuku West exit. Follow the underground passage signs to 都庁

    202m, no ticket, no queue commitment. South deck open to 22:00. Sunset ~18:15. There's a public piano anyone can play. Replaces Shibuya Sky, which is sold out

  9. 19:00–20:45
    Shinjuku

    Dinner — Omoide Yokocho

    Omoide Yokocho is the alley just north of the West exit, 8 min back from the Tocho

    Alley of tiny yakitori counters, 6-8 seats each — you may need to split across two. CASH

  10. 20:45–21:15
    Tocho

    Projection mapping on the building

    Watch from Tokyo Citizens' Square, in front of the building, on the walk home

    Every 30 min, 19:30–21:30 in August. Watch from Tokyo Citizens' Square, on the walk home

30

Sun 30 Aug

Kamakura day trip

Kamakura
KamakuraHaseEnoshima

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  1. 07:15–07:45
    Shinjuku

    BREAKFAST — konbini, eat on the train

    Konbini inside Shinjuku station

    Bags stay at the hotel today — you're checked in until tomorrow

  2. 08:00–09:00
    Shinjuku → Kamakura

    Shonan-Shinjuku Line, direct

    JR Shonan-Shinjuku Line, Shinjuku platform 3/4. ZUSHI-bound. Direct, 60 min

    ~60 min. Check it's a Zushi-bound train

  3. 09:00–09:15
    Kamakura Stn

    Buy Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass

    Machines are inside Kamakura station

    Optional — worth it if you're doing the Enoden coast

  4. 09:15–10:45
    Kamakura

    Tsurugaoka Hachimangu

    10 min north up Wakamiya-oji from the East exit

    Walk the long approach up from the station

  5. 10:45–11:15
    Kamakura

    SHOPPING — Komachi-dori

    Komachi-dori runs parallel, back toward the station

    Craft shops, ceramics, senbei, matcha sweets. Busy by mid-morning

  6. 11:15–11:30
    Kamakura → Hase

    Enoden

    Enoden platform is on the WEST side of Kamakura stn, 3 stops to Hase

    ~5 min

  7. 11:30–12:30
    Hase

    Hase-dera

    5 min from Hase stn, signposted

    Hydrangea paths, sea view from the terrace

  8. 12:30–13:15
    Hase

    Kotoku-in — the Great Buddha

    8 min further north from Hase-dera

    8 min walk. Pay the extra ¥50 to go inside it

  9. 13:15–14:30
    Kamakura

    Lunch — Kamakura Rokuyata

    Enoden back to Kamakura; Rokuyata is 4 min from the station

    Tofu-and-meat hamburg sets, English menu, 4 min from the station. +81 467-61-0680. Open Sun 11:00–16:00 (shut Tue/Wed)

  10. 14:30–16:30
    Enoshima

    Enoden along the coast

    Enoden west along the coast, ~25 min. Kamakura-Koko-Mae is the famous crossing

    Kamakura-Koko-Mae is the famous level crossing. Sea caves, or just the beach

  11. 17:00–18:30
    → Tokyo

    Back to Shinjuku

    Enoden to Kamakura, then Shonan-Shinjuku back

  12. 19:00 →
    Shinjuku

    Dinner — Mo-Mo Paradise Higashiguchi

    3F/4F of the Humax Pavilion, Shinjuku East exit, 5 min from the hotel

    All-you-can-eat shabu-shabu and sukiyaki, 3F/4F. 4.9 from 12,000 reviews. +81 50-1807-6990 — reviewers walk in and are seated. Then pack for Hakone

31

Mon 31 Aug

The Hakone loop

Hakone
ShinjukuYumotoOpen-Air MuseumOwakudaniLake Ashi

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  1. 07:10–07:55
    Shinjuku

    BREAKFAST — hotel or konbini

    7-Eleven by the hotel

    Earlier start for the 08:31 train. Or buy an ekiben at the station and eat it on the Romancecar — the view is the point

  2. 07:55–08:15
    Shinjuku

    Check out, walk to the Odakyu platform

    10 min walk. Odakyu lines are on the WEST side of Shinjuku stn, B1

    ~10 min from the hotel, plus time to find the Romancecar platform

  3. 08:31–10:18
    Shinjuku → Hakone-YumotoBooked

    Romancecar — BOOKED

    Odakyu Romancecar platform. Direct, no change

    1h47. Sit on the right after Odawara for the river gorge

  4. 10:18–10:45
    Hakone-Yumoto Stn

    COIN LOCKERS — leave the suitcases here

    Lockers are by the escalators inside Hakone-Yumoto stn

    Airbnb check-in won't be until afternoon. Large lockers ~¥700–800, by the escalators. Bring coins

  5. 10:45–11:15
    → Chokoku-no-Mori

    Hakone Tozan Railway

    Hakone Tozan platform, same station. Get off at CHOKOKU-NO-MORI, 4 stops

    The switchback mountain climb. Get off ONE STOP BEFORE Gora — the museum is a 2 min walk

  6. 11:15–13:15
    Ninotaira

    HAKONE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM

    2 min from Chokoku-no-Mori stn, signposted

    Sculpture park, Picasso Pavilion, air-conditioned galleries when the heat gets much, a foot bath and play structures. Pram-friendly paths. ~¥2,000. LUNCH at the museum café

  7. 13:15–13:35
    → Gora

    Tozan one stop up

    Tozan one stop up to Gora

  8. 13:35–14:00
    Gora → Sounzan

    Gora cablecar

    Cablecar platform is upstairs at Gora stn

  9. 14:00–14:45
    Owakudani

    Hakone Ropeway

    Ropeway starts at Sounzan, top of the cablecar. Owakudani is the mid-station

    Sulphur vents, black eggs. Fuji if the weather cooperates

  10. 14:45–15:30
    Togendai → Lake Ashi

    Pirate ship across the lake

    Ropeway ends at Togendai; the pier is 2 min from it

    Last sailings around 17:00 — you have slack, but don't dawdle at Owakudani

  11. 15:30–16:45
    Motohakone

    Hakone Shrine + lakeside torii

    Boat docks at Motohakone-ko. Shrine is 10 min along the lakeside path

    Queue for the torii photo runs ~3 min per slot

  12. 16:45–17:45
    → Yumoto

    Bus down, collect bags from the lockers

    Hakone Tozan bus H from Motohakone-ko to Hakone-Yumoto, ~40 min. Then lockers

    Then 10–15 min walk uphill to the flat with the suitcases

  13. 18:00–19:00
    Yumoto

    ONSEN

    Tenzan runs a free shuttle from Yumoto stn; Kappa Tengoku is 5 min uphill

    Tenzan or Kappa Tengoku, both walkable from the flat

  14. 19:10 →
    YumotoCash onlyTight

    Dinner — BOOTEA

    729 Yumoto, 5 min along the main street

    Butadon and taco rice, 5 min from the flat at 729 Yumoto. +81 460-83-9559. CASH ONLY. Mon dinner service 17:30–20:00 — tightest window of the trip. If the loop runs late, eat first and onsen after

1

Tue 1 Sep

Hakone to Kyoto

Kyoto
OdawaraKyotoNishikiPontocho

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  1. 07:00–07:40
    Yumoto

    BREAKFAST — konbini on the main street

    24h Lawson on the Yumoto main street

    Earlier start for the 08:35 train. The Lawson is 24h; bakeries won't be open yet. Grab extra for the 3-hr train

  2. 07:40–07:55
    Yumoto

    Check out, walk to Hakone-Yumoto station

    Station is at the bottom of the main street

    You're on the station's doorstep

  3. 08:00–08:15
    → Odawara

    Hakone Tozan / Odakyu line

    Hakone Tozan / Odakyu, Hakone-Yumoto → Odawara. Freepass covers it

    ~15 min. Covered by the Freepass, which is valid today

  4. 08:15–08:35
    Odawara

    Transfer to the shinkansen platform

    At Odawara: exit the Odakyu gates, follow signs to the JR SHINKANSEN gates. Separate ticket barrier

    Separate gates — allow the full 20 min with bags

  5. 08:35–11:34
    Odawara → KyotoBooked

    Kodama, DIRECT — BOOKED

    Odawara shinkansen platform. Direct Kodama, no change

    2h59, no transfer. Slower than changing at Nagoya but you never move the suitcases

  6. 11:34–12:10
    Kyoto Stn → Gion

    Taxi with bags (2 cars, ~¥2,000 each)

    Taxi rank at Kyoto stn Karasuma (north) exit. TWO cars

    Cheaper by subway + walk, but not with suitcases

  7. 12:10–12:40
    Higashiyama

    Bags to the Airbnb (15-1 Yamatocho)

    15-1 Yamatocho, on Yamatooji-dori just south of Shijo

    You're one street off Gion — check-in may be later, but leave the bags

  8. 12:40–13:40
    Gion

    Lunch — Issen Yoshoku

    238 Gionmachi Kitagawa, 3 min north on Yamatooji

    Three minutes from the flat. Serves exactly ONE dish, a Kyoto okonomiyaki — no menu decisions after a 3-hr train. +81 75-533-0001. Open 11:00 to 01:00

  9. 13:40–15:15
    Nakagyo

    Nishiki Market

    Walk west over Shijo bridge, 20 min. Or Hankyu Gion-Shijo → Kawaramachi, 1 stop

    20 min walk over Shijo bridge, or one Hankyu stop. Indoors and shaded

  10. 15:15–16:30
    Nakagyo

    SHOPPING — Teramachi + Shinkyogoku arcades

    Teramachi arcade runs north from the east end of Nishiki

    Runs straight off the end of Nishiki. Covered, air-conditioned: stationery, knives, secondhand kimono, ceramics

  11. 16:30–17:30
    Pontocho

    Pontocho alley, then back to the flat

    Cross back east over Shijo; Pontocho is the alley running north beside the river

    The earlier train buys you an hour here

  12. 18:00 →
    Pontocho

    Dinner — Izakaya Fukurou

    3F, Nabeyacho, mid-Pontocho

    3F, lively, QR ordering, big menu, ~¥3,000pp. +81 80-5598-6226. Opens 15:00. Changed from Matamoya, which seats a handful

  13. 20:00 →
    Gion

    Walk home through Gion

    South through Gion, 10 min home

    Hanamikoji and the Shirakawa canal are on your doorstep

2

Wed 2 Sep

West Kyoto

Kyoto
ArashiyamaTenryu-jiKinkaku-ji

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  1. 06:45–07:15
    Gion

    BREAKFAST — konbini, eat en route

    Konbini on Shijo-dori

    Everything local opens after 08:00 and the bamboo grove won't wait. Stock the Airbnb the night before

  2. 07:15
    Gion-Shijo

    Walk to Hankyu Kyoto-Kawaramachi, ride to Arashiyama

    8 min walk to Hankyu Kyoto-Kawaramachi → Katsura, change to the Arashiyama line. ~35 min

    Change at Katsura. ~35 min door to door

  3. 07:45–08:30
    Arashiyama

    Bamboo Grove

    10 min north from Hankyu Arashiyama through the town

    The early start is the whole trick. By 10:00 it's shoulder to shoulder

  4. 08:30–10:00
    Arashiyama

    Tenryu-ji

    The grove path exits at Tenryu-ji's north gate

    Opens 08:30. Sogenchi garden from the veranda is the highlight

  5. 10:00–11:00
    Arashiyama

    Togetsukyo Bridge, riverside, monkey park

    5 min south of Tenryu-ji main gate

    Monkey park is a real climb

  6. 11:00–11:45
    Arashiyama

    SHOPPING — main street + Kimono Forest

    Main street runs between the bridge and Randen Arashiyama stn

    Yatsuhashi sweets, incense, bamboo craft, Randen station's lantern pillars

  7. 11:45–12:45
    Arashiyama

    Lunch — Yudofu Sagano

    Beside Tenryu-ji, through the garden gate

    The local dish, in a garden beside Tenryu-ji. Tatami, shoes off, so the baby can be put down. +81 75-871-6946. Open daily 11:00–17:30. ~¥4,400 a head — priciest meal of the trip

  8. 12:45–13:30
    → Kinkaku-ji

    Bus or taxi

    Taxi is simplest, ~30 min. Rail option: Randen to Kitano-Hakubaicho then 22 min walk

    ~30 min across town

  9. 13:30–14:45
    Kita-kuCash only

    Kinkaku-ji — the Golden Pavilion

    Entrance on the south side. CASH for tickets

    One-way loop, ~45 min. Open 09:00–17:00. CASH for tickets

  10. 15:00–16:00
    Kita-ku

    Ryoan-ji rock garden

    Bus 59, or a 15 min walk west

    Optional, 15 min away

  11. 16:30–18:00
    Gion

    Back to the flat, rest

    Bus 205 to Shijo-Kawaramachi, then walk east over the bridge

  12. 18:30 →
    Gion

    Dinner — Gion Sobar

    254 Gionmachi Kitagawa, 4 min from the flat

    Handmade gyoza, soba, wagyu sushi. +81 75-606-5757. Wed dinner 18:00–21:00. Reviewers report a group of 6 accommodated

3

Thu 3 Sep

East Kyoto

Kyoto
Fushimi InariKiyomizu-deraGion

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  1. 06:15–06:45
    Gion

    BREAKFAST — konbini, or save it

    Konbini on Shijo-dori

    Dawn start. There are teahouses at the base of Fushimi Inari for a proper bite after the climb

  2. 06:45
    Gion-Shijo

    Keihan line straight to Fushimi Inari

    5 min walk to Gion-Shijo stn. Keihan SOUTHBOUND to Fushimi-Inari, 8 min

    ~8 min, direct from your doorstep. Better than routing via Kyoto Station

  3. 07:00–09:00
    Fushimi

    Fushimi Inari Taisha

    Shrine gate is 3 min east of Fushimi-Inari stn

    Open 24h and free — go at dawn. Yotsutsuji viewpoint ~30 min up; full loop 2–3 hrs

  4. 09:00–09:30
    → Kiyomizu-Gojo

    Keihan line back north

    Keihan north to Kiyomizu-Gojo, 6 min

    One stop short of home

  5. 09:45–11:15
    Higashiyama

    Kiyomizu-dera

    20 min uphill east from Kiyomizu-Gojo stn. Steep at the end

    The stage, Otowa waterfall, Jishu Shrine

  6. 11:15–13:00
    Higashiyama

    SHOPPING — Sannenzaka + Ninenzaka

    The lanes descend north from Kiyomizu's main gate

    Preserved lanes: Kiyomizu-yaki pottery, hand-dyed textiles, matcha, incense. The postcard Kyoto, and it walks you home

  7. 13:00–14:00
    Ninenzaka

    Lunch — Ninenzaka KAMANZA

    On Ninenzaka itself, no detour

    Right on Ninenzaka. Unaju and udon sets, tablet ordering with English. +81 75-531-1719. Open Thu 11:00–15:30, walk in. Backup: Taku Sando, +81 75-600-9633

  8. 14:00–15:00
    Higashiyama

    Kodai-ji, Nene-no-Michi path

    Continue north 8 min along Nene-no-Michi

  9. 15:00–16:00
    Gion

    Yasaka Shrine + Maruyama Park

    5 min further north; Maruyama Park is behind the shrine

    Five minutes from the flat

  10. 16:00–18:00
    Gion

    Break, or the Philosopher's Path

    Flat is 10 min west through Gion

    Only if you have energy left

  11. 18:30 →
    Gion

    Last dinner — Gion Daikichi Farm

    528 Gionmachi Minamigawa, near Yasaka Shrine

    Curry udon and beef rice bowls, near Yasaka Shrine. +81 75-746-4129. QR ordering. Open Thu 11:00–20:00 (shut Sun). Repack tonight — tomorrow you carry everything

4

Fri 4 Sep

Kyoto to Nara to Osaka

Nara / Osaka
KyotoNaraNambaDotonbori

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  1. 07:15–08:00
    Gion

    BREAKFAST — Gion kissaten or konbini

    Kissaten on Shijo-dori or Hanamikoji

    Kyoto's old coffee houses do a 'morning set' — thick toast, boiled egg, coffee — from around 07:00

  2. 08:00–08:30
    Gion → Kyoto Stn

    Check out, TAXI with the bags

    Flag taxis on Shijo-dori. ~15 min to Kyoto stn. TWO cars

    ~15 min, ¥1,500–2,000. Worth it — the Keihan route needs a transfer you don't want with suitcases

  3. 08:45–09:20
    Kyoto → Kintetsu-Nara

    Kintetsu Limited Express, DIRECT

    Kintetsu Kyoto stn is on the SOUTH side of JR Kyoto, upstairs. Buy the LE seat at the machine

    ~35 min, no change, reserved seats with luggage space. Buy at the station

  4. 09:20–09:40
    Kintetsu-Nara Stn

    COIN LOCKERS — leave the suitcases

    Lockers inside Kintetsu-Nara stn

    Large lockers available here. Nara Park is not a place to drag a suitcase

  5. 09:40–10:30
    Nara Park

    The deer

    5 min east from Kintetsu-Nara exit 2

    Buy shika senbei crackers — they bow for them

  6. 10:30–12:00
    Nara

    Todai-ji, Great Buddha Hall

    15 min northeast through the park, past the Nandaimon gate

    Open 07:30–17:30

  7. 12:00–13:00
    Nara

    Lunch — GYUMON Nara (ramen)

    Back toward Sanjo-dori, B1 of the Morita Building

    Wagyu ramen and gyoza, near Sanjo-dori. +81 742-95-6400. Open 11:00–21:00. 4.9 from 1,200 reviews; reviewers note it handled a group of 8 with kids

  8. 13:00–14:30
    Nara

    Kasuga Taisha

    20 min southeast on the lantern-lined forest path

    Stone and bronze lantern approach through the forest

  9. 14:30–15:15
    Nara

    Kofuku-ji pagoda, or Isuien Garden

    Kofuku-ji is on the way back west; Isuien is just north of it

    Isuien if you want shade and quiet

  10. 15:15–15:40
    Kintetsu-Nara Stn

    Collect bags from the lockers

    20 min walk back to Kintetsu-Nara

  11. 15:45–16:30
    Nara → Osaka-Namba

    Kintetsu rapid express

    Kintetsu Nara line rapid express, direct to Osaka-Namba, 40 min

    ~40 min

  12. 16:30–17:15
    Namba

    Check into Hotel Asiato Namba

    Hotel Asiato is 6 min from Namba stn exit 14

    Minutes' walk from Dotonbori

  13. 17:15–18:30
    Shinsaibashi

    SHOPPING — Shinsaibashi-suji arcade

    Shinsaibashi-suji arcade runs north from the Dotonbori canal

    600m covered arcade running north from Dotonbori. Uniqlo, Muji, drugstores, Don Quijote. Open late

  14. 18:30–19:30
    Dotonbori

    Glico sign, Ebisu bridge, canal at night

    5 min from the hotel, back down the arcade

  15. 19:30 →
    Dotonbori

    Dinner — Kushikatsu Ittoku

    1-6-4 Dotonbori, on the main strip

    Fried skewers, English menu, app ordering. +81 6-6213-9499. Open to 01:00. One dip in the shared sauce, never two

5

Sat 5 Sep

Osaka to Himeji to Hiroshima

Hiroshima
Shin-OsakaHimejiKoko-enHiroshima

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  1. 07:15–08:00
    Namba

    BREAKFAST, check out, take all bags

    Kuromon Market is 5 min east of the hotel

    Earlier start for Himeji. Kuromon Market is 5 min away if you'd rather graze than do a hotel buffet

  2. 08:00–08:20
    → Shin-Osaka

    Midosuji Line with the bags

    Midosuji line, Namba → Shin-Osaka, 12 min, direct

    Namba → Shin-Osaka ~12 min. Leaves ~24 min on the platform

  3. 08:44–09:14
    Shin-Osaka → HimejiBooked

    Sanyo Shinkansen — BOOKED

    Shinkansen gates and platforms are on 3F at Shin-Osaka

    30 min

  4. 09:14–09:35
    Himeji Stn

    COIN LOCKERS — leave the suitcases

    Lockers in the Himeji stn central concourse

    Large lockers in the station. Third and last locker day

  5. 09:35–11:20
    HimejiNo pram

    HIMEJI CASTLE

    Straight 15 min north down Otemae-dori from the NORTH exit. Castle is in view the whole way

    Straight 15-min walk down Otemae-dori from the north exit — the castle is in view the whole way. Grounds are fine with a pram; the KEEP is steep wooden stairs, shoes carried in a bag, NO prams inside

  6. 11:20–12:20
    Himeji

    KOKO-EN GARDEN

    3 min west of the castle entrance

    Right beside the castle, nine walled Edo gardens. Buy the COMBINED ticket (~¥1,050) at the castle — cheaper than separate

  7. 12:20–13:15
    Himeji

    Lunch — Otemae-dori or the station

    Back down Otemae-dori toward the station

    Himeji oden is the local thing. Ekimae has plenty of casual sets

  8. 13:15–13:40
    → Himeji Stn

    Collect bags from the lockers

    Lockers, then straight upstairs to the shinkansen platform

    Boarding at 13:46 — don't cut this fine

  9. 13:46–14:42
    Himeji → HiroshimaBooked

    Sanyo Shinkansen — BOOKED

    Himeji shinkansen platform is upstairs

    56 min, so this is a Sakura or Hikari rather than a Nozomi

  10. 14:42–15:25
    Kyobashicho

    Drop bags at APA Ohashi, then straight out

    Underground walkway from Hiroshima stn, up at Exit 8, over the bridge. 5 min

    Hotel is 5 min from the station via the underground walkway, Exit 8, over the bridge. Don't linger — the museum closes at 18:00

  11. 15:25–17:40
    Peace ParkTight

    Peace Memorial Museum + A-Bomb Dome

    Hiroden tram 2 or 6 from Hiroshima stn to Genbaku Dome-mae, ~15 min

    Museum CLOSES 18:00 in September. Just over two hours — the tightest block of the trip. Go straight there

  12. 17:40–18:15
    Peace Park

    Walk the park in the late light

    The park is a single open space; the Dome is at the north end

    Children's Peace Monument, cenotaph, the flame

  13. 18:15–19:00
    Hondori

    SHOPPING — Hondori arcade

    Hondori arcade starts at Genbaku Dome-mae and runs east

    Covered arcade running east from the Peace Park. Local sweets, Carp baseball goods, drugstores

  14. 19:00–20:30
    ShintenchiCash only

    Dinner — Okonomimura

    5-13 Shintenchi, at the east end of Hondori

    Four floors of okonomiyaki stalls, griddle counters. +81 82-241-2210. Syo-chan on 2F is well liked. CASH ONLY

  15. 20:45 →
    APA Ohashi

    ONSEN — the hotel's communal baths

    Tram back to Hiroshima stn, then the underground walkway

    The reason to pick this hotel. Best possible end to the Peace Park day

6

Sun 6 Sep

Miyajima, then Tokyo

Hiroshima
MiyajimaMt MisenHiroshimaShinagawa

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  1. 06:30–07:15
    APA Ohashi

    BREAKFAST at the hotel, check out, LEAVE BAGS

    Breakfast is in the hotel; bag storage at the front desk

    Go early — APA breakfast runs out. Bag storage at the desk

  2. 07:15–07:35
    → Hiroshima Station

    Walk back via the underground walkway

    Underground walkway back to Hiroshima stn, 5 min

    ~5 min, plus buffer. JR train at 07:45

  3. 07:45–08:45
    → Miyajima

    JR Sanyo Line + JR ferry

    JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi, 27 min, then the JR ferry, 10 min. Suica works on both

    ~27 min train, ~10 min ferry

  4. 08:45–09:30
    MiyajimaCheck tide

    Itsukushima Shrine

    10 min along the foreshore from the ferry pier

    CHECK THE TIDE TABLE — high tide floats the torii, low tide lets you walk to it

  5. 09:30–10:45
    Miyajima

    Daisho-in temple

    15 min uphill south from the shrine

    Spinning prayer wheels up the mountain stairs. More deer

  6. 10:45–11:45
    Miyajima

    SHOPPING — Omotesando street

    Omotesando runs back down toward the pier

    Carved rice scoops (the island's craft), momiji-manju, cedar chopsticks

  7. 11:45–12:45
    Miyajima

    Lunch — BARL ISSAI

    By the pier, 2 min from the ferry

    Oyster curry and raw oysters by the pier, cheap and good. +81 829-78-0793. Open 10:00–20:00

  8. 12:45–15:15
    Mt Misen

    Ropeway + summit walk

    Ropeway base at Momijidani, 10 min walk or a free shuttle from the pier

    The later train buys you this. ~30 min up, then a 20-30 min climb to the summit for the Inland Sea view. Last ropeway down ~17:00

  9. 15:15–16:15
    → Hiroshima

    Ferry and train back

    Ferry, then JR back to Hiroshima

    Or skip Misen and do Shukkeien Garden, 10 min from Hiroshima Station

  10. 16:30–17:10
    APA Ohashi

    Collect bags

    Underground walkway, Exit 8. 5 min each way

    5 min each way via the underground walkway

  11. 17:20–18:00
    Hiroshima Stn

    DINNER — buy ekiben for the train

    Ekie food hall is inside Hiroshima stn, before the gates

    Hiroshima's is anago-meshi (grilled conger eel on rice). Eat it somewhere over Okayama

  12. 18:00–21:55
    Hiroshima → ShinagawaAlight early

    Nozomi, direct

    Shinkansen platform. GET OFF AT SHINAGAWA, one stop before Tokyo

    ~3h55. Dark by Fuji, so no view tonight. GET OFF AT SHINAGAWA — one stop before Tokyo

  13. 22:05 →
    Shinagawa

    Check in — Shinagawa Prince N Tower

    Hotel is across from the Takanawa (west) exit

    Across from the station. Keikyu to Haneda leaves from here tomorrow

7

Mon 7 Sep

Fly home

Canada
ShinagawaTokyoHaneda

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  1. 08:00–09:00
    Shinagawa Prince N Tower

    BREAKFAST, pack, check out (leave bags at the hotel)

    Bag storage at the front desk — queues at checkout, go early

    Last one. Hotel buffet, or Ecute inside Shinagawa Station. Bag storage queues at checkout — go early

  2. 09:00–12:45
    Tokyo

    Free morning — SHOPPING

    JR Yamanote north from Shinagawa: Tokyo stn 12 min, Ueno 20 min. Ginza via Shimbashi

    Yamanote north: Ginza (20 min), Tokyo Station Character Street, Imperial Palace East Gardens, or Ameyoko at Ueno

  3. 12:45–13:30
    Shinagawa

    Back for bags, quick lunch

    Ecute food hall is inside Shinagawa stn

    Ecute inside the station has good bento and cheap sushi

  4. 13:30–13:50
    → Haneda T3

    Keikyu Airport Line, direct

    Keikyu Airport Line from Shinagawa, DIRECT to Haneda T3, 13 min, ~¥330

    ~13 min, ~¥300, no transfer. Runs every few minutes

  5. 14:00–17:00
    Haneda T3

    Check in, security, gate

    International departures are on 3F at Terminal 3

    3 hrs before a 17:00 international departure

  6. 17:00
    → Toronto

    Fly home

    Direct to Toronto